Lapchi Trek: A journey to remember

Amid our busy work schedules and daily responsibilities, one day, a friend and I realized that it was time for us to take a much-needed escape into nature. Instantly, a name came to our mind “Lapchi,” a place that had been creating quite a buzz on social media at the time. Located in the northern part of Dolakha district and extending toward the Tibet border, Lapchi is a beautiful valley within the Gaurishankar Conservation Area, situated at an altitude ranging from 3,700 to 4,900 meters.

A day-and-a-half drive from Kathmandu or a day’s travel from Charikot, the district headquarters of Dolakha, takes trekkers to Lapchi—a remote destination nestled in the lap of the mountains. With its deep spiritual significance, Lapchi offers visitors a rare opportunity to experience Buddhist culture while enjoying the breathtaking mountain views from up close. With its tranquil surroundings, Lapchi is one of Nepal’s most peaceful trekking destinations.

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Initially, the plan was for just the two of us. But the most interesting and memorable part of the journey was not to go exactly as planned. The journey took an unexpected turn when more friends joined us. Our group of two eventually grew to nine. 

Our journey began from Chabahil. We traveled almost 155 kilometers along a scenic road before reaching Lamabagar. As we were leaving the hustle and bustle of city life, the hills changed with every turn, the small streams grew into roaring rivers, and the concrete landscape slowly gave way to the beauty of nature.

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Our bus driver was so kind and friendly that he would stop the bus at every scenic spot, allowing us to capture photos and videos along the way. At one point, we spotted a massive waterfall on the other side of the road at Chetchet. It appeared much bigger than I remembered from our visit four years earlier, when we passed through the area during my trek to Tsho Rolpa in the Rolwaling Valley.

The roar of the waterfall, the lush greenery surrounding us, and the gentle wind had already begun to win our hearts. But the road to Lamabagar truly tested our patience and courage. Steep hills stood on one side and the mighty Tamakoshi river flowed dangerously close on the other.  The narrow road with landslides and scattered boulders along the way made the journey even more challenging.

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After we reached Lamabagar and stepped off of the bus, a beautiful waterfall welcomed us. We spent the night in the hotel “Himro kitchen”, which felt more like a home than the hotel. The hotel owner explained every detail of the trek. He also arranged a jeep for the following morning and generously offered us a discount. His kindness and hospitality left a lasting impression on us.

The most interesting part of the journey was that we were all strangers when we first met. Yet, within just a few hours, it felt as though we had known each other for years.

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Entering Lapchi’s popular tunnel was one of the worst memories of the journey. There were no lights inside, and the road was barely recognizable as a road. Potholes filled with water were scattered everywhere, making the travel even more difficult. Later, the driver told us that the tunnel once had lights, but local youths had broken them.

Our jeep driver, “Nakkale Dai,” was another highlight of the journey. He would stop the vehicle at every beautiful spot, allowing us to pick raspberries and take photos and videos. He seemed to enjoy our excitement and was in no hurry to reach the destination. Like us, he simply wanted to slow down and enjoy the beauty of nature.

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We had tea and noodles at the last shop before beginning our hike. The trail was quite difficult at first, but it gradually became more enjoyable. The path wound through a beautiful landscape, with the raging Tamakoshi river flowing on one side and a stunning waterfall on the other. We walked through a lush forest filled with colorful wildflowers, making the journey mesmerizing. 

As we walked uphill, the rain began to fall. From Lower Gumba, we climbed for about 45 minutes to reach Upper Gumba. The final stretch was quite hard, but soon we reached the Upper Gumba, where we encountered Guru Rinpoche, who had come from Ladakh, India, to perform a special puja. It was a deeply spiritual moment which is difficult to put into words.

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We did not expect luxury at the Gumba. We were not tourists there; we were guests. After dinner, we had to clean our own plates, a simple rule that we really appreciated. They had offered us a place to stay without expecting anything in return, so we felt it was our responsibility to help them as much as we could.

Lapchi is a place where people come in search of peace, meditate, and spend time in nature. However, after photos and videos of Lapchi went viral on social media, the number of visitors began to increase dramatically, and the environment gradually started to deteriorate.

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Later, we were informed that the Gumba would no longer be hosting the tourists. It was a reminder that even the most peaceful and sacred places can be affected when an influx of people begins to visit.

Now, anyone travelling to Lapchi has to arrange their own accommodation and food.

At Upper Gumba, we slept peacefully to the soothing sound of the river flowing nearby. That night, we had only one wish: “May the weather clear tomorrow.” When we opened our eyes the next morning, the sky was clear and blue. The breathtaking sunrise, snow-capped mountains, and crystal-clear river instantly made us happy, washing away all our tension and fatigue.

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By experiencing and watching such a majestic view from up close, at that moment we felt that we had really discovered the true meaning of happiness.

Situated at an altitude of 3,670 meters above sea level, Lapchi Village lies in the lap of Mt Lapchi Kang and is one of the last villages on the Nepal side of the border.

Early in the morning, we set out to explore the village. After crossing a river that flows down from Tibet, we continued toward one of Lapchi’s most popular spots, which had gone viral on social media.

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When we finally reached the place, we realized that the photos and reels circulating on social media could not do justice to its beauty. No camera could capture the spectacular landscape before our eyes. Lapchi was far more beautiful in reality than anything we had seen on social media.

Another highlight of this journey was that we were invited to take part in the Puja performed for the welfare and prosperity of the people and the village. While participating in the Puja, one of the Lamas said, “This is your good karma that you are here today.”

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The sight of Guru Rinpoche, the blessings of the villagers, the opportunity to witness a cultural dance, and receiving prasad made us feel both blessed and emotional. It was truly an unforgettable experience that added a spiritual touch to our voyage.

Meanwhile, after a three-hour drive, we reached Lamabagar, where we had lunch at the “Hamro Kitchen” hotel before heading back to Kathmandu.

Our Lapchi journey gave us much more than beautiful views. It introduced us to new friends, kind and welcoming people, and cherished moments filled with blessings. Most importantly, it took us to the serene and peaceful place we had been longing for.

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Some places become viral for no particular reason. But Lapchi has become famous for something more meaningful—its natural beauty and spiritual significance. We had gone to Lapchi simply to see its beautiful views, but we returned home with much more: new friendships, stories, blessings, and memories that will stay with us forever.

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